Looking out the kitchen door we look down to the Mediterranean Sea where fishermen are siting in small boats fishing. They fish for their living. No swimming at all on this area Coast. The under tone is too fierce for that sport - no waves though. There is a tunnel from this house right below back door to shore of sea. However door of tunnel opening is locked so there is no . . . . to the sea from this area. (Gulf of Gaeta)

Formia is in center of Gulf of Gaeta. It is part of the setting of . . . . and Odyssey the land of the Laestrygo . . . . . – Sportan Colony. Also Crcirod . . d . . here at the hands of Anthony.

Carol and Bob Wright's apartment is in Dining Hall of Villa rubino. It has 2 baths (huge) all covered with tile (walls and floor) bath tub – shower- l . . .ry tubs and douche vessels. It has a large living room opening onto tiled patio. Patio looks down on orange and lemon groves and pigeon tower. (Pigeons were used to carry messages before invention of telephone) two bedrooms and dining area and kitchen. Kitchen sink and counters are so low- (looks like toy room) to accommodate short women.

Back door of kitchen and dining area looks out over Bay of Gaeta- (beautiful) Land sloped down to sea shore and is covered by orange and lemon groves owned by landlord. Sea is probably only a block away but is not accessible from here. Robert and Carol live on second floor . . . .

This Villa has several apartments in huge cement and steel building four stories high. Landlord lives in one apartment, his brother and their family live in another apartment other apartments are rented out to various families. A high wall surrounds the apartment - . . . . and surrounding grounds to the sea. A huge iron gate is locked at all times and one gets in only by ringing the tenant's buzzer. There is an outdoor theatre in the courtyard inside the wall. The landlord, Rubino, owns all the movie theatres in Formia. In summer, the indoor theatres are too hot (no air conditioning) so he shows movie out side in his courtyard.

On the trip from airport in Rome we traveled along Coast from Terrecina to Formia. This was the most beautiful coast line.

Terrecina is a town of six and seven story huge apartment buildings built on side of mountain in layer down to coast. All apartments had patio covered with plants and drying laundry. Streets were layered one above the other.

From Terrecina we traveled a few miles to Gaeta the recreation spot of Italy. Here cars were double parked all along the highway while the beaches below had Sro or were literally covered with bodies and beach umbrellas. People were swimming and sun bathing in Gaeta.

About five miles further along the Coast we came to Formia - No swimming here – beautiful but lots of fishing. (Monday August 8)

Robert's ship was stationed at Gaeta. Navel facilities were located at Gaeta. However, the Base (Navel) is at Naples.

Windows are covered with parciona's (shades).

Our first try down to Gaeta with Sandy, Carol, Robbie and Heather. Carol is driving.

Gaeta is only about five miles along Coast toward Rome. Carol put a two seater stroller in her Ford trunk for Heather and Robbie to ride in when we reach our destination. There is no break between Formia and Gaeta. Huge six and seven story apartment houses line the road on inside of street. Outside of street or ocean side borders the Beach. Mountains (high) are on side – apartments area in other words apartments are built on side of the mountains. On Beach side of street ground slopes steeply down to ocean.

We visited Bob's station, saw his ship and were on our way to Bank o Roma to get Italian currency when Carol's Ford quit. Traffic was bumper to bumper, horns honking, streets jammed with cars and people. Cars, Mopeds, motorcycles, and bikes all trying to move on, park, etc. Finally Sandy pushed and Carol steered to a parking spot . .

The streets are narrow, cars are all tiny, motorcycles are all small so that they can maneuver and park. Cars double park on one side of street so that people can get to Beach to sun bathe and swim. Carol's car is a litle too big for this area

However, we took a cab to an Esso station where Carol got an Italian to drive to her Ford and get it moving Carol paid Cab Driver five mils or five dollars for his trouble, Esso man got car going and we puttered and stuttered to Bank o Roma to get Italian money. I turned in sixty dollars of traveler's check and got ninety mils and some 500 lira in exchange. We hurried home before getting into any more trouble.

While in Gaeta I noticed that all shops and businesses had many stories of apartments above them. All apartments had patios. Plants grows on patios and drying clothes hung everywhere. We saw bed sheets hung out of open windows to dry in the sun, some four and five stories above the ground.

While waiting for Carol, Sandy and I saw one woman four stories up washing the outside cover of her glass door to her patio, then she washed her patio floor then taking a broom she swept all that water off the patio down the front hitting a woman's laundry two stories down. Water also splashed down the walls of the building.

There are no closets in the apartments. Because of the tax structure, a closet is called a room, and is taxed extra – so people put in clothes – wardrobes that will not be taxed. Also new buildings are made to look old at time of erection to save on property taxes. Property is judged by appearance on outside and taxed accordingly. The inside may be very beautiful. All floors are marble, walls are cement and steel – plumbing is remarkable. Ceilings are high.

Here in Carol's apartment the two bathrooms are huge. They have large wash basins on one central ceramic pedestal. The stool is very low and big around, one almost feels he will fall in. there is a laundry tub in one bathroom and a douche stool in both bathrooms. Walls of both bathrooms and floors are covered with beautiful tile.

All of Carol's floors and patio are covered with marble. Part of kitchen and living room is carpeted also. Chandelier in living room.

Climate is not oppressive as there is a cool sea breeze blowing through the apartment constantly. People here look just like anyone in America. However, the women wear dresses. I have not seen any women in slacks. Very few wear shorts – those who do are going to Beach.

(Tuesday Aug 9 afternoon) We started window shopping 10:00a.m. Downtown is just across the street and a short walk thru to main shopping area. Saw many small shops, ice cream shops, soft drinks booths with little tables and chairs on sidewalk in front. Sandy, Carol, Heather, Robby and I had a soft drink almost like a slush in a tiny cup – cost 1 mil a piece. That would be a dollar to an Italian. Mine was green and tasted like mint. Not too good. We sat in a beautiful park above the ocean and watched an Italian ship unloading cargo. This park was given to city by Rubino family – formerly it had been part of Rubino estate. From there we went down to a huge open air market – fruit, vegetable, fish and cheese stands. Across the street we each bought a pizza sandwich that we took back to the Rubino Park to eat. Two of the cost us 350 mils or 3500 lira. That would be $2.40 in dollars.

The down town street was very narrow – had parallel parking – all shops had several stories of apartments above them. Traffic was bumper to bumper and people crowded the streets. Sidewalk tables and chairs were filled with coffee or soft drink customers. However, this is August, the month the . . . . . get away from their . . . . and .. . . . . in the sun at the seashore. (this is the summer recreation spot of the Coast) so hence the congestion everywhere.

At the open market Sandy bought one Kilo (2 ½ lbs) of shrimp for 20 Mills or for $6.50 a lb. They were fresh but uncleaned. She also got a bag of potatoes, one watermelon ($1.50) or 2 Mills, some plums (.50 $ lbs) I think.

Then Sandy proceeded to cut off tails and devein all those tiny shrimp. Carol made a batter to fry them into and they fried all of them in deep fat. After cutting up some potatoes and deep frying them they made a salad and we sat down to a feast. It was all delicious. But I just could not clean those shrimp.

After supper Sandy and I discovered a path through the orchard that winds around and downward to the shore. We walked alongside high ancient walls that had slits in them (possibly guard posts for people to fight off invader) We came upon another block building with patio down near shore. We have been told this was the residence of King of Naple's mistress. He had a tunnel from the Villa to her little apartment. His queen also had a lover who was ensconced. . in another building and there was a tunnel from this Villa to that building also. We have not found that residence yet but this estate is vast.

Wed Aug 10 this A.M. Carol, sandy, Heather and Robbie and I went to Gaeta to an outdoor bazaar. In the town square were lined up truck after truck. Next to these trucks were stands covered by awnings selling every thing – shoes, purses, dishes, kitchenware, hand bags, belt, beads, jewelry, vases, porcelain. Each stand would specialize in some item. Also were stands of cookies, cheese, meats – (smelled terrible). At noon all stands closed for day so we went home. Sandy bought a . . . . – glass vase for 22 Mils. They asked 30 Mils for it but Sandy bargained them down. We each had a ice cream bar and we bought a package of cookies for kids. Siesta time I slept. Hot today but not too bad in the shade. Nice breeze blowing thru apartment off the ocean.

In the evening Sandy and I went exploring on the Rubino grounds. We found a path and followed it down to the sea by way of thick ancient walls grape vines, fig trees. We picked a bunch of grapes and ate them on the way. When we came to house that was residence of King's mistress we found it occupied with a small car parked outside. We circled that home and continued down the path toward ocean shore. Finally we came to a dead end with r. . . (flat) of building in front of us. There were four old wooden steps leading up to roof of their lace. We climbed stairs and stepped onto a marble tiled flat roof with a iron railing all around roof. Upon crossing to the other side, we looked down upon a mar . . , a curved road circling the Bay below us, and a pier that extended far out to sea. The building we were standing on must have been four stories down to the road and shore below. The marina was filled with small boats, cars were lined along the road. One man was burning garbage along the road in a space between the cars.

(Aug 11) This morning we all walked along shore for almost a mile to the outdoor bazaar. The same bazaar that we visited yesterday at Gaeta. The bazaar moves every day to a different location. Today Sandy bought Kay a pair of dress shoes for 20 Mil ($14.00) they asked for 35 Mil and Sandy jewed them down to 20 Mil and Sandy jewed them down to 20 Mil. At another tent Sandy bought a leather belt 5.50 Mil = $3.00. From a vendor she bought a string of beads for 1 Mil – he asked for 2 Mil but Sandy jewed him down also.

Last night we had an electric storm and rain. Carol puts a pellet in a little heater that keeps out all mosquitoes and insects so we are not bothered. We are having another electric storm today but no rain as yet.

Villa Rubino – Bonechi: taken from archaelogical latium.

There are Roman Villas (built by the Romans) all along the Coast and are the main feature of Formia. Some of them are Villa Corto, Villa Irlanda, Velta Lamberti and Ville Caraciolo the larget of all is in the Villa Rubino. It has massive substructures rooms still decorated with stucco and paintings from the first century A.D. and a . . . . . in which a spring still flows. This has been identified as the falled Spring of Artocie, (it is still flowing today) near which the companion of Ulysis met the daughter of theKing of the Laestrygenions, and the villa is known as the Velle of Ciciro, not because he lived there but in memory of him because he wrote of Formiaa in his poetry and he died in Formia at hands of Anthony's henchman.

Gaeta

In ancient times it was part of Formia (port of Formia) with a string of Veller along shore owned by emperors and rich Romans. (Nero, Domitiam, Antonius Pius, Ainia Faustina) etc. These lined the coast up to Sperlonza and Terracine.

Friday Aug 12

This morning Carol took Robby, Heather, Sandy and I to Gaeta to Bank o Roma to get money changed. I turned in 160 travelers check and got 200 in Mils in return. We ate at Navy Exchange for lunch.

Afternoon Sandy and I took a walk down to Pier about six blocks from here. Walking out in Pier we took pictures of house (4 story) The one that we stood on roof (coming toit from back way on or through Rubani's orchard) Also got pictures of Rubino Villa and also of tunnel openings on shore. The Arch of Villa is door to Carol's apartment.

On walk to Pier we looked down upon gardens planted on flat roof of Villas on seaside of walk. Building were four stores high and we looked down upon the roofs . . . beautiful gardens.

Apartments in these Villas rent out for 1500 and up a month during summer. (Aren't we lucky we are staying at Carol's free?) These are the Villas along sea dating back to Roman kings/rulers such as Ne . . etc.

In the Bay on Marina formed at f . . of these villas lie anchored yachts, house boats and many kind of sailing vessels. There is a small beach here also and a beautiful park. Many people were sun bathing but there were no swimmers when we were there. The shore line from this pier down to any part rubino Villa is rocky and really looks bad – no one ever swims there at all. The Rubino's must own about a mile of the Coast line and everything up to highway above their Villa. Rubino's also have a boat in this Marina. I think Marina is called a "Yacht Club."

Saturday Aug 13 ---Time of Nero---

Pompei – resurrected city (excavated from ruins of eruption of Mt. Vesuveus) was first mentioned in history in 310 B.C. Oscan first then Latin became official languages.

Vesuvius eruption 79 A.D. and lasted two days and covered the city. The walls of Pompeii were tow misles in circumference and covered 155 acres. Besides the public buildings werehundreds of private buildings. (homes) Homes were decorated with elaborate floor mosaics (marble)(stucco) Had lots of open land used for vineyards. Bakeries (loaves of bread) – staple wool processing – sculptors, tool makers, lamp makers. Population 20,000.

In the morning we went to Navy Exchange where Sandy got Carol a back carry – All for baby- Carol boughjt a suit and pants for Robby. Then we had ice cream sundaes – Then we headed for Pompeii. Arriving there Carol had to park down a steep narrow passage so narrow that she had to drive into an open garage door and edge slowly out and rock back and forth until she faced direction of street (cost 2 Mils). A parking attendant got us a horse and buggy (15 Mils) that drove us up a narrow street or path on side of mountain to Villa of Mysteries. This was an excavated home of rich Pompeisn. Villa had several rooms covered with frescos – had indoor bath and opened into central courtyard that had lawns – gardens, sculptures and fountains. Villa was surrounded by vineyards. Oh yes – cost of ticket to explore Pompeii was 17 Mills. Buggy returned us to one of the main streets of Pompeii – one lined on both sides by homes. People traveled by foot on narrow rock 3 ft walks on each side of an eight foot rock based road about 2 feet deep that had flood water running through them.